As you enter the square upon which Fiskebar sits you could be forgiven in thinking you have entered an abandoned warehouse district. But looking past the crumbling cement and cracked tiles you will see a vibrant community reveling in their hipster surrounds. Restaurants packed – bustling with activity, dj’s spinning 70’s funk and people of all ages catching some rays on those long Scandinavian summer nights. And about as strange as a culture hub springing up in a generations old meat packing district (‘kødbyen’) is Kødbyens Fiskebar, a classy seafood-centric restaurant residing in an old meat hanging hall.
The interior of Fiskebar does a great job in deceiving newcomers of the class and quality of food yet to come. With yellow stained ceiling, cracked white tiles and a few large mirrors you could be deceived into thinking you are on a horror movie set, however the large, well stocked bar and giant cylindrical fish tank inform you otherwise.
The meal our group ordered consisted of a combination of both small and large plates, our intention was to share them all. Each dish was presented beautifully and not one dish disappointed. Combinations like Langoustine tartar with smoked bone marrow, pea flowers and pickled onion to Scallops with peas, tendrils, granola, morels, capers and dill vinaigrette not only looked great on the plate but balanced well in the mouth too. The desserts were no less interesting and as our savoury dishes were enjoyed so thoroughly we went for them all. The standout being a deconstructed pear crumble of pear, pear meringue, sherry vinegar ice-cream, cherry beetroot gel and almonds. Desserts stepping outside the box can, at times, lose their dessert feel and become another strange savoury dish, but Fiskebar balanced creativity with flavour well.
Our group was sufficiently satisfied with all that Kødbyens Fiskebar offered, so if you ever find yourself in Copenhagen (a very interesting city indeed) you must spend an evening in the meat packing district and book a table at this seafood restaurant. Oh and if you aren’t one for seafood but all your eating buddies are, there is an ode to the building’s original purpose in the form of a succulent, dripping, rib eye steak..